Acne: Fall/Winter 2012 Runway Review
The severe (plastic/acrylic?) neck collars in Acne’s Fall/Winter 2012 collection remind me of glossy chiropractor braces, which unfortunately is not a standout criticism amidst a line that, as a whole, appears cold and clinical. The palette features fleshy camels, bloody reds and hospital blue, coupled with equally chilly futuristic neon (orange and lime). The most bizarre silhouettes seem to tortuously marry the persona of a space-station dominatrix with some sort of punk-lumberjack. What the heck?
Unfortunately, I see the entire line as a misstep for Acne, which rose to international fame over the past few years courtesy of their organicly-draped, comfortably androgynous and almost accidentally sexy separates. Previously, it’s been their successful footwear / accessories line that brought ferocity to their looks; so, I guess it’s not completely unexpected for them to try extending this visual severity to their garment line. I should state for the record that I’m always a fan of experimentation; creativity can hardly exist without a willingness to lean, and even jump outside of one’s comfort zone. However, creativity aside, I just don’t “get” Acne’s 2012 vision.
When looking at the line without the reference point of Acne’s previous work, I can’t help but feel I’m watching a young designer, trying very hard to create an Avant Garde version of the Jil Sander aesthetic, but lacking the wisdom, elegance and editing to carry it through.
The Acne creative collection is an acronym for “Ambition to Create Novel Expression,” and is a component of Acne Studios which was founded in Stockholm, Sweden in 1996. Founded in 1997 with a small line of raw denim, the line has since grown to include a full men’s and women’s apparel line, footwear and accessories. To date, there are 21 Acne stores in eight countries.