A Detacher: Fall/Winter 2012 Collection Runway Review

Feb 23, 2012 by

A Detacher Fall/Winter 2012 Runway Show

In A Detacher’s Fall/Winter 2012 collection, sophisticated Asian references meet playful snow bunny styling. Slick hair is gathered atop the head in a large bun, visually serving as a Geisha knot and a ski hat pom-pom. Overall, the palette is neutral and warm, featuring consistent pops of feminine, retro colors, as well as what I’ll affectionately refer to as “80’s secretary patterns” (you know, when women’s business-wear was basically shrunken down menswear). Houndstooth, plaid, argyle and one busy florals are everywhere. Throughout, there are some splendid silhouettes: boxy blouses (with ¾-length peplum sleeves) over skinny pencil skirt, shift-tunics over tailored pants, cozy shift dresses and modern, waist-conscious suits with coordinating separates.

A Detacher Fall/Winter 2012 Runway Show

I used the word “consistent” before, and would like to expand on this, since as we all know from watching 9 full seasons of Project Runway, consistency is essential to execution of a great line. In many industries, consistency is used almost interchangeably with repetition, ie: everything came off the same assembly line. In the fashion industry, consistency means that your entire line tells one story, replete with fully-conceptualized and executed characters that progress, just as in—you guessed it—a story. Watching a line in which there’s no progression would be like hearing a story in which every line was some slight variation on the opener: “Once upon a time…” and then “This is where our story starts.” If you’ve ever read a series novel, you know that while there’s a sense of resolution at the end of one book, there’s also enough of a cliffhanger to spark one’s interest in the consequent part of the series. Basically, when you see an opulent, heart-stopping evening gown at the end of a runway show, that’s the cliffhanger. It’s the look that makes you say “wow, if he/she can do that, then what’s next?!”

A Detacher Fall/Winter 2012 Runway Show

There is no such cliffhanger in the AW A Detacher show. However, there is a very elegant and thoughtful story here. In the second half of the show, a bluish-gray bamboo-inspired printed silk appears, nodding to both the kimono and to the girlish modern separates trend. Carrying this aesthetic to the tail of the show are delicately knit, almost lattice-looking cardigans, and blouses with thick, color-blocked Obi-referencing waistbands.

A Detacher Fall/Winter 2012 Runway Show

One of my favorite runway items was a pair of shoes that appeared in about 50% of the looks and in a few different colors. Essentially, the shoe is a neutral-toned, pointed toe maryjane clog/platform, with a sporty, thick lace-up ankle strap. As someone who’s always on the hunt for great shoes that can stay on my feet, last the whole day and make a statement without committing to one major style reference, I’ll be waiting for these to go on sale. (And by “on sale,” I mean, for sale by someone who is casting them away on Ebay in about 2015. Oh, tough, whimsical maryjane, I will have you.)

A Detacher Footwear from A/W 2012 Runway

A Detacher is designed by Mona Kowalska, shown annually in New York, and known for its luxe, architectural apparel and shoes made for the mature, urban individualist.


Related Posts

Tags

Share This